EXPLORE TIRANA
Albania’s Capital City & My Second Home
Watering our family’s garden in Tirana
Over the past 5 years, Tirana has really become a second home to me but it wasn’t until I was looking through my photos of Albania for this article, that I realised I have so many but hardly any of Tirana. It dawned on me that’s because when I am there, my life tends to follow the sort of routine I would have in my own house in London. Time there is all about family and getting to enjoy day to day activities with them around. It’s the little things like trips to the market with my mother in law or grabbing coffee with my husband’s sisters and nephews.
Outside of Tirana, my trips around Albania are adventure-packed and every day is completely different so either end of the trip, spending some down time in Tirana with the family is exactly what’s needed.
Sunset from our family home in Tirana
Living in London, it’s quite easy to get caught up in the crazy pace of it all and to be honest, a part of me actually loves it. I’m not the type of person who craves escapism from how busy London is, I kind of thrive in it. I’m always looking for new ideas and having so much inspiration on my doorstep feeds into that. However, especially as a cook, there are certain elements of Albanian life that I really miss whenever I get back home. We grow and produce a lot of what we eat in Albania and the connectivity between our land, family and what’s on our plate is something that I’ll never have the luxury of replicating in London. This tends to fuel a lot of what I get up to in Tirana because I want to make the most of the opportunity. I love spending time in the garden, whether we're picking peppers, gathering eggs from the chickens or making a fire pit to cook flija on.
Chickens at our family home in Tirana
Outside of our home, I love wandering round the local markets to soak up some inspiration. The array of colours and fresh scents emanating from the fruit and vegetable stalls just calls to my inner cook and there are loads of places to buy fresh ingredients or try them in a restaurant setting.
Two of Albania’s leading agritourism experiences are in Tirana, Blerina’s Agritourism Concept and Mrizi I Zanava’s Tirana branch. Both pride themselves on delivering an entirely seasonal farm to table menu and are fine examples of Albania’s enviable warm hospitality. If you’re planning a special meal for your time here, either of these are a great place to start.
Fresh fruit market in Tirana
This city isn’t all fine dining and restaurant meals though. While there isn’t much of a street food scene like what we have in London, there is a booming cafe culture and local grill houses take the reins from traditional street food vendors in the most delicious way. Just before you reach Tirana’s Pazari i Ri, there is a corner that you’ll spot a mile away if the smell doesn’t grab your attention first. A small cluster of grill houses with open fronts gently billow freshly-grilled scents from their busy kitchens, capturing the appetites of the locals who come here. Qofte, Albania’s version of kofta is the speciality here. Served alongside fresh green salads, yoghurt and bread, it’s simple yet delicious.
Pazari i Ri is great to wander around to soak up some of Albania’s food culture and explore some of its prized ingredients too. Sacks of fresh nuts and dried fruits are stacked alongside barrels of infused olives and garlic plaits. Aside from food, the market is also one of the best places in the city to find antiques and it’s fascinating to rummage through relics from the country’s intriguing past.
Nuts for sale in Pazari i Ri, Tirana
Varieties of wild, Albanian tea at Pazari i Ri Tirana
Tirana hosts a number of cultural experiences where you can immerse yourself in the country’s past and embrace its development too.
The best example of this is probably the Piramida e Tiranës (Pyramid of Tirana) that has undergone transformative restoration in recent years to create a cultural hub from what was originally constructed as a museum for the communist leader Enver Hoxha. When I first visited Albania, the pyramid was in its derelict pre-renovation phase so to see it completely transformed is incredible and a powerful symbol of the exciting development Albania is currently experiencing. The journey to the top is the perfect pilgrimage before watching the sunset over the city. If like me, you have a keen interest in interiors or architecture, this Dezeen Award winning structure is a must-see.
Bunk’Art is another way you can step back in time to Albania’s communist past. Hidden beneath the city is an almost palatial nuclear bunker that has been converted into a museum exploring the communist era and the hundreds of thousands of bunkers that were constructed during Enver Hoxha’s regime.
The many occupations and cultural influences that have shaped Albania’s society have left a unique blend of religions within the country and Tirana features some of the finest examples of religious buildings in the country. It’s worth wandering through some of the mosques or churches when you can to explore their history and architecture. After over a decade of re-construction, the largest mosque in the Balkans is now complete and is well worth visiting.
Architectural detail at one of Tirana’s mosques
The Grand Park is something of an oasis within Tirana and is perfect for a gentle stroll or picnic. I love going here towards the end of the day as the light begins to soften and it casts a beautiful glow over the lake. Even during the winter months, you can easily forget you’re in the middle of a city.
As well as exploring the city, just outside of Tirana, there are also some fantastic sites that are perfect if you’re spending a weekend here and you want to see a bit more of Albania. One of my favourites is Dajti and I’ll be sharing some more details on this in another article in the coming weeks.
Park and lake in central Tirana
If you’re planning a trip to Tirana, or around Albania and would like any information or tips, feel free to email me and I’m happy to help!
When I first started visiting Albania, I was often the only non-Albanian in many of the places we would go so it’s amazing to be able to share my knowledge of this country with more people and help you with any questions you have.