JOURNEY TO THETH
From Tirana to Theth - A Journey Through Northern Albania
For me, there’s no greater anticipation than waking in the early hours of the morning to travel somewhere new. As Tirana’s morning haze melts into the warm glow of sunrise, those familiar butterflies dance in my stomach once again as we begin the four hour journey to Theth in Northern Albania.
Despite Albania’s notoriously treacherous roads, I firmly believe that driving is the best way to experience the country. While the SH20 may be adorned with hair-raising turns, each one reveals breathtaking views that will stay imprinted in your memory forever.
One of the reasons our journeys to Northern Albania take so long isn’t traffic or the white-knuckle drive; it’s resisting the urge to stop at every incredible viewpoint along the way. Just when you think you’ve reached the crescendo, another stunning panorama appears, and then another…
Getting There
If driving these winding roads isn’t for you, don’t worry, you don’t have to miss out on Theth! Buses and tours operate from Shkoder, offering an alternative route into the heart of the Albanian Alps. If you choose this option, I highly recommend staying overnight in Theth to fully soak in its beauty. Many day tours don’t provide enough time to explore and once you see Theth for yourself, you’ll be glad you stayed longer.
I don’t have personal recommendations for tour companies yet, as I always strive to share only my tried-and-tested experiences. However, if you’ve taken a great tour and want to share your insights, feel free to reach out! I’d love to hear from you!
If you’re driving, a stop in Shkoder is the perfect way to break up the journey and if you have time, it’s a town worth exploring. On a clear day, the views from Rozafa Castle are breathtaking - you can even see across to Montenegro!
When You Arrive
Theth is a natural paradise, boasting unspoiled landscapes, crystal-clear rivers, and mountain views that belong on a postcard. If you’re looking for a bustling town packed with shops and restaurants, this probably isn’t the place for you. But if you’re after a tranquil, nature-filled escape, you’re going to love it.
The town itself feels almost frozen in time. Nestled in a valley surrounded by dramatic peaks, traditional stone houses encircle a stunning 19th-century church. Although most of the buildings near the center now cater to tourists, Theth’s undeniable charm remains intact. The pace is slow, the air is crisp, and the views - well, they’re simply breathtaking.
The jewel of this region is Theth National Park - a nature lover’s dream. Dense forests weave through vibrant turquoise waters, leading to dramatic canyons, natural pools, and incredible waterfalls. The Ujëvara e Grunasit waterfall is a must-see. The hike to the falls takes around 45 minutes to an hour and, while it can feel challenging in the summer heat, the reward is worth it. Plunging into the cool springs beneath the waterfall is pure bliss.
Similar to the famous Blue Eye of Southern Albania, Theth has its own Syri I Kalter (Blue Eye of the North). This glacial-cold, turquoise pool is one of the area’s most prized natural spectacles and is an absolute must-visit. The journey there involves a moderate hike, but trust me - it’s worth every step.
If you’re up for adventure, Theth offers countless hiking opportunities. Research routes or join a guided trek to explore the hidden gems of the surrounding mountains.
Eating in Theth
After a long day of hiking, nothing beats a hearty traditional meal and Northern Albania is home to some of the country’s most authentic dishes.
The first time I tried flija was in Theth, and it remains one of my most beloved food memories in Albania. Flija is a layered pancake-like dish, traditionally cooked using a large metal lid called a saç, with each layer meticulously prepared one at a time. It’s a labor of love, but the result is a delicious dish served either sweet or savory. I personally love mine with thick kos (yogurt) - a combination I highly recommend!
Be sure to also try tavë kosi, a baked lamb and yogurt casserole that is rich, comforting and perfect with a slice of handmade local bread to soak up the sauce.
Northern Albania is renowned for its honey and cheese, both of which are worth sampling. The honey produced in this mountainous region is particularly special due to its medicinal properties. As you drive to Theth, you’ll likely pass fields of medicinal tea plants, which play a key role in the region’s honey production. The bees pollinate these plants, transferring their health benefits into their honey - a truly natural remedy.
Of course, I couldn’t write about dining in Theth without mentioning Albanian hospitality. This is a place where nature, culture, and warmth come together in the most beautiful way, making it a destination that lingers in your heart long after you leave.
Final Thoughts
Theth isn’t just a place - it’s a feeling. A feeling of untouched beauty, peaceful solitude, and genuine hospitality. Whether you come for the hikes, the views, or the food, one thing is certain: Theth will stay with you long after you’ve left.
If you’re planning a trip to Theth or exploring Albania in general and need recommendations, feel free to reach out! I love hearing about your travel plans and would be happy to share any tips to make your journey as unforgettable as mine.