MOUNTAIN DRIVE
The refuge of a rocky stopping bay washed over me as the we shuddered to an unsteady halt; The heat of the handle stinging my hand as I emerged into the cool mountain air from the stifling containment of the car.
The winding ascent towards the mountains from Tirana had given me a new understanding of people who spend most of a journey asking “Are we there yet?” Although I had never really struggled with travel sickness; the sharp, unpredictable turns on a road some 1600m above sea level was enough to make even my stomach uneasy.
As I walked towards the edge of the road, the camber quickly gave way to an expansive view across the valley. With only the gentle rhythm of the wind dancing through rugged peaks and the distant ring of goat’s bells; the near silence felt a world away from the rushing, screeching, beeping and whirring of London. For a moment, the world seemed to stand still.
Mountain Goats, Albania
The best way to describe some of the more rural roads in Albania is that it’s like playing Mario Kart in real life. Winding tracks tunnelling through mountains and leading over rickety bridges; crater-sized potholes and sheer drops at either side of the road that feel almost an inch away from the wheels.
As twisted as it sounds, there is a sort of rugged charm about the roads in Albania that you learn to appreciate once you reach your destination. There’s something adventurous about travelling through obstacles in search of somewhere new; somewhere undiscovered that you are yet to experience. I have always felt that the beauty of Albania’s rural landscape comes not just from the place itself but the way it drives you to persevere in order to see it. Twist after turn, you’ll wonder what could have possessed you to wake up in the early hours of the morning in search of this supposed natural paradise. “It had better be worth it,” you’ll tell yourself. And if there’s one thing I’ve learned in all the years I’ve been travelling to Albania, it’s that once you reach your destination, it most certainly will be.
Rustic Door, Albania
What’s magical about travelling in Albania is that so much of this beautiful country is completely untouched. Up in the mountains, you can drive for hours without seeing a single car, person or building. The lack of modern influence transports you back in time and it’s easy to understand why the North of Albania historically was, and still somehow is, a world of it’s own. A rugged world of mountainous terrain, wild flowers, waterfalls and secret springs; a peaceful world revolving around the seasons, an absence of technology and the dramatic landscape.
Mountains in Theth National Park, Albania
Of course, one of the first things on my mind when I explore any new place is how the environment will materialise in the local cuisine. You’d be mistaken if you drove through the rural roads towards the Albanian mountains and thought there could be nothing but a few goat’s or sheep. Northern Albania boasts an exciting array of local ingredients including tea, honey, fresh dairy produce, olives and wheat. From Lezhë to Valbonë, the ingredients of the North have inspired some of Albania’s most beloved dishes including flija, a savoury dish of crepe-like layers cooked in a traditional Saç pan over an open fire.
Skilled-cooked djath (Albanian cheese) with fresh thyme and country bread
I love cooking with the dairy produce of the North and after a long day of hiking through the mountains, there is nothing quite like gathering around an open fire to enjoy local djath cheese, similar to feta, lightly toasted in a cast iron pan with a few wild herbs and smothered over fresh country bread. A drizzle of local honey over the top takes this simple dish to the next level and it’s one I love recreating when I’m back in London too.
Life in the North reminds me to slow down and be resourceful with local ingredients to create simple dishes that can adapt to what is in season. Back in London, I often find myself immersed in a world where choice is no longer a privilege but an expectation. Supermarket shelves are packed with ingredients from across the globe, defying seasonality in favour of availability. While variety can really be the spice of life, I think there’s much to be taken from the simple eating practices of Northern Albania, that centre around seasonality and minimal waste. This food culture isn’t just a way of eating, it’s a way of living.