MRIZI I ZANAVE
Come With Me To Albania’s Answer To Farm To Table…
Living my farm girl dream at Mrizi i Zanave, Albania
Ever since Netflix’s ‘Chef’s Table’ educated me on the genius that is Dan Barber’s Blue Hill Farm, a flame for the farm to table concept ignited in me and has been burning ever since.
In an age where we have so much variety at our fingertips, seasonal eating and approaching food from a natural perspective rather than one of commodity is becoming less and less popular. As urban landscapes span into the greenbelt land surrounding our cities, the possibility to explore this way of eating seems less possible with every new development.
However, across the globe, there are pockets of change that have broken through the modern way of eating.
Goats at Mrizi i Zanave, Albania
Tucked away in Lezhë county is Albania’s answer to farm to table and since 2007, they have been embodying the very essence of what it is to live and cook locally. You won’t find a menu at the restaurant. Instead, the offering is based on what’s available that day; A tasting menu of the best the farm has to offer at that moment and you can really taste it. Although the founding chefs started their careers in Italy, they haven’t brought this influence into the restaurant. Flavours are powerful and authentic to traditional Albanian cooking, which is hard to come by, even in many domestic settings in Albania nowadays. Across the country, many places opt to serve food to suit international palettes but Mrizi i Zanave isn’t afraid to step out of that race and in many ways, it’s what has led to their success. Every element is considered from the absence of popular soft drinks, replaced instead by freshly pressed juices; to the handmade condiments that are served alongside select dishes to perfectly compliment them, rather than being readily available on demand. It’s an experience so authentic to Albania, it couldn’t be replicated anywhere else in the world.
Restaurant and vineyard at Mrizi i Zanave
Sustainability isn’t something of a billboard topic here, it’s naturally engrained into not only the food but the community that Mrizi has built around it too. The pulp from the fresh juices is fed to the hundreds of geese that live at the farm and delicious preserves of perishable foods are crafted to ensure that nothing goes to waste.
There is a profound social sustainability at Mrizi that I think needs to be commemorated also. In the UK, it’s common knowledge that many farmers would struggle to sometimes even break even without the heavy assistance of Government grants. On a wider scale, the Hospitality industry is notorious for operating on skeleton staffing rotas, paying little and expecting a lot in return.
With over 400 local families contributing to the produce at Mrizi and being paid fairly and far higher than average for their efforts, as well as a large team of over 70 staff; there is an air of community, family and support that emanates across the farm and into the food. Speaking to one of the workers, he explained that they pay producers higher than average, not only to encourage them to collaborate but also to encourage them to deliver a higher quality of ingredient and to support success within a wider community than the restaurant alone.
Raki making, outbuildings and kitchens at Mrizi i Zanave
Cheese barrels at Mrizi i Zanave
Cheese, Charcuterie and Wine Caskets at Mrizi i Zanave
Exploring the Mrizi estate, I found myself struck by an experience one can only describe as fate at its finest. As I was taking pictures of the delicate pastel vases lining the steps to the gallery space that has been set up on the farm, a young boy named Armando emerged and asked if Cesk and I would like a tour of the place. Desperate to see behind the scenes, we followed along and safe to say, I wasn’t prepared for the chef’s paradise I was about to encounter.
Just a short walk away from the main event at the restaurant is a cluster of rustic buildings where the behind-the-scenes action takes place. Wandering through the labyrinth of dairy, preserves, pasta, wine and charcuterie production, you can’t help but feel in awe of the sheer volume of beautiful ingredients that are created here. The way the doors are thrown open to each area feels more like visiting a family member than it does scouting the premises of an esteemed restaurant, which only adds to Mrizi’s charm.
Armando explained that during the peak summer months, they can expect 800-1000 guests at the restaurant per day. And although the volume of ingredients in each of the rooms is proof of the turnover, the atmosphere as you wander around the restaurant and farm isn’t the hectic bustle you would expect based on the numbers. There is a calm, gentle hum of movement throughout the place that emanates through the entire experience, including into the food.
Food is served family style, encouraging you to slow down and connect over the meal. Coming from the UK, I can tell you that this is something of a myth in many modern households, for whom food is a mere necessity to be prepared, eaten and cleaned up in a matter of minutes. While it’s not always possible to indulge in the time it takes to eat a tasting menu like that at Mrizi i Zanave, there is a lesson here that grows from the food into something of a lifestyle. One that prioritises community, family, health and sustainability. In a world where we often have an abundance of flavours and every season at the rapid beep of a self-service machine, projects like this are a stark reminder of where and indeed who our food comes from; and those who are affected by the food choices we make.
Pastel vases on steps at Mrizi i Zanave
Ingredients at Mrizi i Zanave, Shop and prep kitchen
Since creating Tavoli earlier this year, I’ve been researching Albanian recipes to uncover the secrets of traditional Albanian food. Since the adoption of communism in 1946, there was a heavy decline in the written history of recipes and food in Albania. Years later, much of this history remains lost however places like Mrizi i Zanave give you hope that there is a new history in the making that looks back to move forward; that remains true to the people and the land that produce Albanian food and that proves even the most modern advancements can’t beat the quality nature provides when it’s given the right environment.
Vineyard at Mrizi i Zanave
If you’re planning a trip to Albania and want to soak up some of the magic of Mrizi i Zanave for yourself, check out their website and book a table!